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Thursday 19 January 2012

fruit and veg a hamster can eat

Hamster can eat fruit and veg but not too much or it will upset their tummy. here is a list of fruit and veg they can eat.

Vegetables, herbs and fruits that are safe to feed a hamster are:
  • Alfalfa
  • Apple (seedless)
  • Asparagus
  • Avocado (skinned and seedless)
  • Banana
  • Basil
  • Blackberries
  • Blueberries
  • Broccoli
  • Brussel Sprouts - small amounts occasionally - not all hamsters like the strong taste
  • Calabrese
  • Cabbage - should only be fed in small amounts occasionally as too much can cause health problems
  • Carrots
  • Cauliflower leaves and stalks
  • Celery
  • Cherries - stones should be removed as they can be dangerous if gnawed
  • Chestnuts
  • Chicory
  • Chinese Leaves
  • Coriander
  • Corn-on-the-Cob
  • Corn Salad
  • Courgette
  • Cranberries
  • Cress
  • Cucumber
  • Curly Kale
  • Dates
  • Endive
  • Fenugreek
  • Feijoa
  • Figs
  • Grapes
  • Green beans
  • Kale - should only be fed in small amounts occasionally as too much can cause health problems
  • Kidney Beans (cooked)
  • Kiwi Fruit
  • Kumquat
  • Lettuce - small amounts occasionally - in excess it can cause liver problems
  • Logan Berries
  • Lychee
  • Mange Tout
  • Mango
  • Marrow
  • Melon
  • Mint
  • Mung
  • Okra
  • Pak Choy
  • Papaya
  • Parsley - a good tonic
  • Peach
  • Pear
  • Peas
  • Plums - stones should be removed as can be dangerous when gnawed
  • Potato (cooked)
  • Raspberries
  • Raspberry Plant leaves - beneficial for diarrhoea
  • Rhubarb (cooked)
  • Rocket Chard
  • Sage
  • Sorrel
  • Squash
  • Star Fruit
  • Strawberries
  • Sugar Cane - small amounts
  • Sweet Potato
  • Soybean Sprouts
  • Swede
  • Sweetcorn
  • Sweet Peppers
  • Ugli Fruit
  • Turnip
  • Water Chestnuts
  • Watermelon
  • Water Spinach

Vegetables and herbs that should not be fed are:
  • Kidney Beans (raw)
  • Onion
  • Potato (raw)
  • Potato tops
  • Rhubarb (raw)
    Vegetables, herbs and fruits that are safe to feed a hamster are:
    • Alfalfa
    • Apple (seedless)
    • Asparagus
    • Avocado (skinned and seedless)
    • Banana
    • Basil
    • Blackberries
    • Blueberries
    • Broccoli
    • Brussel Sprouts - small amounts occasionally - not all hamsters like the strong taste
    • Calabrese
    • Cabbage - should only be fed in small amounts occasionally as too much can cause health problems
    • Carrots
    • Cauliflower leaves and stalks
    • Celery
    • Cherries - stones should be removed as they can be dangerous if gnawed
    • Chestnuts
    • Chicory
    • Chinese Leaves
    • Coriander
    • Corn-on-the-Cob
    • Corn Salad
    • Courgette
    • Cranberries
    • Cress
    • Cucumber
    • Curly Kale
    • Dates
    • Endive
    • Fenugreek
    • Feijoa
    • Figs
    • Grapes
    • Green beans
    • Kale - should only be fed in small amounts occasionally as too much can cause health problems
    • Kidney Beans (cooked)
    • Kiwi Fruit
    • Kumquat
    • Lettuce - small amounts occasionally - in excess it can cause liver problems
    • Logan Berries
    • Lychee
    • Mange Tout
    • Mango
    • Marrow
    • Melon
    • Mint
    • Mung
    • Okra
    • Pak Choy
    • Papaya
    • Parsley - a good tonic
    • Peach
    • Pear
    • Peas
    • Plums - stones should be removed as can be dangerous when gnawed
    • Potato (cooked)
    • Raspberries
    • Raspberry Plant leaves - beneficial for diarrhoea
    • Rhubarb (cooked)
    • Rocket Chard
    • Sage
    • Sorrel
    • Squash
    • Star Fruit
    • Strawberries
    • Sugar Cane - small amounts
    • Sweet Potato
    • Soybean Sprouts
    • Swede
    • Sweetcorn
    • Sweet Peppers
    • Ugli Fruit
    • Turnip
    • Water Chestnuts
    • Watermelon
    • Water Spinach

    Vegetables and herbs that should not be fed are:
    • Kidney Beans (raw)
    • Onion
    • Potato (raw)
    • Potato tops
    • Rhubarb (raw)
    • Rhubarb leaves
           

hamster illness

Hamsters are pretty hardy pets, but are so small that injuries and illness can quickly become serious. If you notice any signs of illness in your hamster, you need to see a veterinarian as quickly as possible. Signs to look for include loss of appetite, inactivity, huddling in a corner, ruffled or unkempt coat, sneezing, discharge from the nose or eyes, wheezing, wetness around the tail, and diarrhea. Hair loss can be a symptom of skin disease or parasites, and also warrants a trip to the vet.
If a hamster is ill or injured, keep the hamster warm, and encourage it to take some food or water (by dropper if necessary) until a vet can be seen.
Abscesses: these are pockets of infection, which can form from fairly minor breaks in the skin. Pus accumulates under the skin, sometimes forming a sizable lump (which may sometimes begin draining on its own). Abscesses can form from cuts or scratches on the skin and also in the cheek pouches if abrasive food material causes scratches in the lining. If a hamster continually looks like it has food in packed in its cheek pouches, there may be an abscess or an impacted cheek pouch present. Abscesses require veterinary attention for draining, flushing, and treatment with antibiotics.
Respiratory Infections: hamsters can get respiratory infections that can lead to pneumonia. Signs include sneezing, discharge from eyes or nose, wheezing and labored breathing. Occasional sneezing is not too worrisome, but if there is any loss of appetite, decreased activity, wheezing or difficulties breathing, immediate veterinary attention should be sought.
Wet Tail: also called proliferative ileitis and regional enteritis. This is a highly contagious disease, and most common in recently weaned hamsters. The cause is uncertain, but a bacteria called Campylobacter jejuni may be involved, and in some cases the disease is associated with stress, crowding, and diet changes. Affected hamsters may die very quickly, exhibiting signs such as diarrhea (causing wetness around the tail), lethargy, loss of appetite, and ruffled coat. Note: not all hamsters with diarrhea have this disease, see below.
Diarrhea: a number of infections can cause diarrhea (including but not limited to wet tail), along with diet changes and treatment with antibiotics. Over feeding vegetables and other fresh foods is a fairly common cause of diarrhea, but in this case there is usually no loss of appetite or decrease in activity. Dehydration is a real concern, so make sure the hamster is drinking if diarrhea occurs, and a veterinarian should be consulted. With diarrhea, withhold fresh foods for a few days and resume only if the diarrhea is completely resolved, and start back onto fresh foods slowly.
Skin Diseases: hamsters can be infested with a number of mites, which can be identified by a skin scraping by a vet and treated accordingly. Ringworm (actually a fungal infection) can also occur, and requires treatment by a vet. Allergies and skin infections can also occur. Hair loss is not all that unusual and can be seasonal or happen in older hamsters. If there is flakiness or redness of the skin or any lesions on the skin, or the hamster appears to be itchy and scratching more than usual, a vet should be seen. Hamsters do have scent glands on their flanks which can be dark and sometimes alarm owners. These occur on both sides of the body and do not appear irritated or bother the hamster. Cedar bedding can also cause skin irritation or allergies in addition to lung problems so should be avoided.
Hibernation: if the room temperature is allowed to drop below normal room temperature, hamsters will go into a sort of hibernating state, where they are very still and breathe very slowly. Many owners panic and think their hamster is dying or dead, when might be a matter of the hamster getting too cold (for exapmle if the owners go away for the day and turn the thermostat down in the house). Rewarming the hamster should be sufficient.

hibernating
rember if you see any of these sighs take you hamster to the vet asap

handling your hamster

. Handling hamsters is one of the joys of having hamsters, but until you have had success at taming your hamster, you will not have much luck holding your hamster. Hamster do sometimes bite, but it is very important to remember that if your hamster bites, it means that your hamster is frightened and is defending itself the best way it knows how. If you are consistently calm and gentle about handling your hamster, and employ a little bribery by offering them their favorite treats from your hand, it will lead to success in taming your hamster
General Rules for Taming Hamsters
To make handling and taming easier, there are a few simple rules to follow to make sure your hamster is not stressed before you start handling your hamster:
  • when you bring home a new hamster, give it a week or so to just get used to its new home and surroundings before you try to do much handling.
  • make sure your hamster has a nice, good-sized cage and the other necessities for stress-free housing.
  • place you hamster's cage in a location where your hamster will be around people, but not disturbed by excess noise, harrassment from other pets, or other distractions (especially during the day when hamsters are mostly sleeping).
  • don't disturb or try to handle your hamster during the day when it is sleeping, especially at the beginning. Work on taming and handling only after the hamster has emerged from his or her nest on his own -- waking up a hamster is a fairly sure way to make him or her defensive and grumpy!
Taming Hamsters
Taming requires time and patience. Don't rush through the steps, and take time to get to know your hamster and respond to its cues. The key here is to earn your hamsters trust so your hamster can be sure that he or she has no reason to be afraid of you. Remember if you push your hamster too far, too fast, your hamster will be stressed, and it will actually be harder to earn your hamsters trust. Be sure your hamster is not stressed by any of these steps before moving on to the next one:

  • Step one: allow your hamster time to become comfortable in his or her new environment. Signs include your hamster eating, drinking, and playing when you are present.
  • Step two: spending more time around your hamster's cage and quietly talk to the hamster to get it used to your voice. Don't know what to say? Try reading a book out loud or singing softly to your hamster!
  • Step three: offer some favorite treats (try sunflower seeds, or bits of raisin or other dried fruits) by hand. Start by offering treats through the bars of the cage (if you have a wire cage, otherwise just offer them right at the edge of the cage door), and once your hamster scurries over for treats, try putting your hand just inside the cage. Don't try to touch your hamster -- let your hamster come over to explore your hand.
  • Step four: place the treat on your open hand inside the cage, so that your hamster has to reach onto your hand, and perhaps place a paw or two onto your hand to get the treat. Again, don't force the issue -- let your hamster come to you.
  • Step five: place the treat so that your hamster has to climb on your hand to get the treat. Once your hamster is bravely doing this (and only then) try to gently scoop up your hamster and lift him or her up. The first few times your hamster will likely jump right off, but just be gentle and persistent, and eventually your hamster will realize your hands are safe.
The time for this progression varies, especially depending on the age of the hamster and your hamster's personality. Your hamster may quickly accept being picked up, or it may take a month or more.
How to Pick Up a Hamster
The best way to pick up a hamster is cupped in the palm of your hand with the other hand over its back to prevent it jumping off your hand (and possibly getting injured). Especially at first, it is best to hold your hamster just above your lap or some other soft surface in case it falls or jumps. As your hamster gets more comfortable, let him or her crawl from hand to hand and over your arms. You can continue to offer treats, though your hamster may not be as interested in treats where there are more interesting things to see and explore.

Picking Up a Hamster That Isn't Tame
There may be a time you need to pick up a hamster that isn't hand tamed yet, especially when it is time to clean the cage. If you need to pick up an hamster that isn't yet tame place a cup (or cardboard tube with paper stuffed in one end to close it off) on its side in front of the hamster, and gently herd the hamster into the cup (or tube), which can be used to carry the hamster. Out of curiosity many hamsters will walk right into the cup.

Gloves or a thick towel can be used if you must pick up a hamster that bites and the cup method isn't working. The problems is that this can be really stressful and cause your hamster to resist handling even more. If it is necessary to use this method, take extra care to be as gentle as possible.
Tip: if you need to clean the cage of a hamster that isn't tame, or want to have an untamed hamster out of the cage for exercise, try a clean, dry bathtub. Make sure the drain is plugged, and close the bathroom door and the toilet lid (just in case your hamster is a super jumper, but most hamsters can't get out of a tub). Place the hamster's cage in the tub, open the door and let the hamster come out to explore (this won't work if you use an aquarium). Use treats to entice your hamster out, if necessary. Once your hamster is out, take the cage out of the tub to clean it, then put the cleaned cage back in the tub with the door open, and use treats to entice your hamster to get back in.
Some people will even sit in the empty bathtub with their hamster to get it used to their presence - you could add this into the steps I've given above once you get to step four or five. Just remember to let your hamster come to you, don't try to force the issue.
                                    this is not how to handle a hamster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

what you need to buy for a hamster.

Hamsters take a lot of hard work to look after them ect cleaning,food and all.below is a list of everything you will need to look after a hamster if you require more infomation mail me and i will reply to you.

things you will need to care for your hamster/s;
.decent size cage(you will need as big as you can aford so they can run around)
.food bowl
.water bottle/bowl
.sawdust (put a layer of sawdust so it wont hurt there feet)
.beeding so they can be warm
.house to hide/sleep
.hamster food (if you want to change there food for 10 days put the old food and the new food togther)
.hamster( of course)
.wheel (if its not bulit in the cage)
.hamster ball(so they can get exercise)
.some chewblocks(so there teeth dont grow too long)
.plenty of hdiing places
.things to play on

Thursday 12 January 2012

dwarf hamsters

chinese
There is 3 diffrent breeds of dwraf hamsters
.russian dwraf hamsters
.chinese hamsters
.roborovski hamsters
 
i will tell you more about them read below.

Russian dwarf hamsters
There are 2 types of russian hamsters; campbell's russian and winter white russian.Its difficult to tell the difference between the 2 breeds but you'll know what one you have as winter white russian turn white in the winter.campbe'lls russian hamster can be beige,brown,black or white whilst winter whites spend the summer in there brown coats and often become totally or partially white as winter approaches.Russian hamster are lively and sociable and will usallly live happily in the same sex,pairs or groups.Once theyre used to you theyll enjoy being handled however theyre sensitive to rough handling and so are not suitable for younger childer.Russian hamsters live for about 2 years.

chinese hamster

Chinese hamsters tend to be slightly thinner then russiabn dwraf hamsters,have slightly longer tails than most hamsters and are usally either grey/brown colour with a black stripe,or white with a grey stripe,they are easy to handle,are great climbers and will cling to your fingers with their tiny paws.Because chinese hamsters are very fast and not suitable for younger children.Male chinese hamsters live happily in pairs or groups but females can be intolerant of each other and may be better of living alone.Chinese hamsters live for about 2-3 years.


Roborovski



Roborovski hamsters are smaller and quicker than both russian and chinese hamsters and can be hard to handle at first untill they get used to you.They have a good temperament and are usally happy living in the same sex pairs or groups.Theyre very amusing to watch as they race around there cage.they tend to be a sandy colour with a white stomach and have a cute white eyebrows and whiskers.they live for about 2 years


robrovski hamster

russian dwarf hamsters

Thursday 5 January 2012

hamsters

Ther is loads of breeds of hamsters but only 5 breeds of hamsters that people have as pets her is a list.

hamsters;
.Syrian hamsters
Dwarf Campbells Russian Hamsters
Dwarf Winter White Russian Hamsters
Chinese Hamsters
Roborovski Hamsters

here is a list of hamsters who live in the wild
1.European Hamster also called as Common Hamster or Black Bellied Hamster
2.Romanian Hamster
3.Turkish Hamster also called as Brandts' Hamster
4.Ciscaucasian Hamster also called as Georgian Hamster
5.Ladak Hamster
6.Chinese Striped Hamster
7.Mongolian Hamster
8.Eversmann's Hamster
9.Tibetan Hamster
10.Lesser Longtailed Hamster
11.Armenian Hamster
12. Greater Longtailed Hamster also called as Korean Hamster
13. Mouse-Like Hamster